So it is that time to start to clean and polish engine parts and order all the new gaskets and rings and bearings. I love to open a box full of stuff that is all new for a engine. It is like Christmas for me.
On this project I decided to do all of the work by hand, felt like it would be just a better and cheaper way to do this. Also no one in my area would dip the block or any parts I had because they could not replace anything if something went wrong and did not want to deal with insurance claims on that stuff. So I decided to go to harbor freight and get a bunch of brushes, both hand and ones to put in my drill press.
This stage took several months since I only work on this during the weekends usually. But I did get the entire block and all the parts looking like new again. I even had to find some pipe cleaners to clean out the oil pipes in the block that was the hard part since recently my area decided it was considered a drug related item to buy pipe cleaners and you have to be 18 to get them here. That is just stupid. Schools gave them out to do crafts with but now you need a drivers’ license to buy them? That didn’t make much sense to me. Well, I am ranting again. Either way, I did get everything clean and ready for final assembly.
I do highly suggest that you make sure every bearing race and seal fit correctly. Check the ring clearance and make sure that every piece that goes into the piston and connecting rod area are balanced. this means that all the pistons should weigh the same with out the connecting rods attached. Also the connecting rods should all weigh the same with out the piston attached, and all the connecting rod pins should also weigh the same by themselves.
VERY IMPORTANT!! If you are thinking of changing the connecting rod pin bearing you will need to have a reamer set available, with a machinist with a machine that they can ream the bearing out correctly for your pins. This is super important. If you buy bearings, the old ones must be pressed out and new ones pressed in. Then ream the bearings to fit the pin in. Do not mix up the order of the pin to connecting rods after this point. If you mess this part up, you will have to start all over.
I still have to put the timing belt on and stuff, but I wanted to make sure I had all the parts and make sure that everything lines up clean. I also had to make sure my head was flat on the bottom. I did this by mounting a very large sheet of sandpaper very fine grit to a very large mirror I had and slid it back and forth in many directions till i got a nice flat polished look and the straight edge was flush. This did not take very much off the head at all. At most I think maybe 0.001 or so of a inch in the worst spots. This little bit does not really make any difference on performance or clearance. What this did for me was the fact that my oil areas of the head were leaking before and now they will not. Very Important for me, because I do not feel like taking the head back off the engine anytime soon.
You can also see my air pump in this picture and the water pump that runs the A/C unit off of the rear pulley. In my first road test I did not have the air pump hooked up and the A/C was not connected as well. I was only checking the body of car for strength.
If you find out that you do not have enough of those weird washers that this motor seems to use, they are called “Bellville spring washers”. They can be found if you call Midwest Bayless and tell them what sizes you are looking for.
IMPORTANT: These little washers are used like everywhere on this engine and for good reason. They actually create tension when the motor is cold and flatten out some when the engine is hot, this allows for the expansion and contraction of the aluminum head on the iron block to work. This also keeps all the bolts tight without having to put a ton of torque on the bolts. Never over tighten the bolts.